ON TOUR: Prague
ABTN last visited Prague in the autumn of 2002 just after devastating
floods had caused havoc to one of Europe”s great historical cities.
There was no Metro, the buses were somewhat overcrowded and life was
beginning to get back to normal. Now four years later one of our
staffers, Jackie Kramer, has returned. Here is her story.
In the two years since Prague joined the European community, the
compact capital of the Czech Republic has become one of Europe's most
visited city. With cheap flights from most of the UK's airports
getting there is no problem, Ruzyne International Airport about 10
miles from the city and with good public transport and mini shuttles
direct to your hotel.
The torrential floods of 2002 have not left a damaging effect to the
Czech capital. In fact they have added to the tourists” interest and
are incorporated into the commentary on buses and walking tours. A
once relatively cheap city has now had to increase its charges and is
beginning to fall in line with other popular European destinations.
Prague is steeped in history. From the central square in Stare Mastro
you can see the impressive Prague Castle in the distance which deserves
a half to full day's visit if you want to cover the entire 18 acres.
Prague's most popular tourist attractions are the Gothic St Vitius
Cathedral (dated 1344), the Old Royal Palace (dated 1135) and its
jousting and coronation hall, still used for the swearing in of new
presidents; and the vast Royal Gardens. With a three day open tram
and train ticket, hop on one of the many trams that take you over the
Valtava River from Stare Mastro to the Castle. Alternatively a
beautiful walk along the 15th century Charles Bridge winding your way
along the cobbled streets to the Castle gives you the opportunity to
take in some of Prague's art shops in the Mala Strana district. On
the Mala Strana side of the river is Petrin Hill, which was once draped
with vineyards, to which you can still see the quarry that provided
stone for most of Prague's Romanesque and Gothic buildings.
If your leg muscles cannot take the 318m climb, then there is the
funicular railway. There are various tourist traps at the peak of the
hill, including the Stefanik Observatory, a glass maze and the enhanced
view at the top of the Petrin Tower, a 62m (203ft) copy of the Eiffel
Tower, built in 1891 for the Prague Exposition (with 299 steps). When
there are visitors en masse on the peak, it becomes too crowded and
after you pay the small fee to enter these establishments you do feel
as if you have entered a tourist trap. Far better is the breezy walk
along the peak towards the Strahov Monastery (dated 1140; completed in
the 18th century), which features a baroque church, where Mozart is
said to have tickled the ivories, and the Strahov Library, with its
collection of tomes and frescos. It is no longer a functioning
monastery as the communist government closed the doors and imprisoned
some of the monks.
In the city centre first time visitors must weave in and out of the
medieval cobbled streets. With your head held high you glare up to
the gold crested buildings which gleam in stature.
Prague is a walking city. The main centre is pedestrian, entwined
with curved streets. Clustered with medieval building overlooking the
streets below. Prague is catching up with the European caf” culture.
Most street corners have some type of eateries and the main squares
are surrounded with waiters charging double the price of some of the
less conspicuous establishments. If you want the view of the 15th
century Astronomical Clock & Old Town Hall Tower you pay the price to
watch the hourly procession of the Twelve Apostles on the clock. A
small trap door opens and Christ marches out ahead of his disciples,
while the skeleton of death tolls the bell to a defiant statue of a
Turk.
The highlight of any stay is the view of Prague whilst crossing the
Charles Bridge. This 17th century bridge has been rebuilt and statues
have been added to make an impressive total of 75. Although slightly
"kitch", the market sellers and musicians are always there, making your
visit full of activity and interaction.
To the North of Stare Mesto lies the old Jewish ghetto (Josefov).
This area once housed Europe's largest Jewish community. Now a mere 1,
500 Jews occupy and run the six synagogues. The Jewish Museum offers a
n all-inclusive ticket, allowing you to visit the ceremonial hall,
Jewish Museum and Town Hall, the Klausenm, Maisels, Pinkus, Old-New and
Spanish Synagogues as well as the Jewish Cemetery. The history of the
Jews in this area dates back to the 10th century and the community has
depicted various areas of Jewish life themed in each building which is
very much worth a half to full day's attention.
The area also boasts the biggest concert hall in Prague, decorated with
works by leading Czech artists from the early 20th century ” most
notably Alfons Mucha. Alternatively Prague is famous for its puppet
and black light theatre. If you wish to be more outgoing, the clubbing
and pubbing scene has doubled since stag and hen nights have
discovered this once quiet and reserved city, waiting to burst into
mainstream Europe.
As the centre is compact and user friendly, it is not necessary to stay
in the more expensive upmarket properties. A 15 minute walk to the
north, on the doorstep of Andel station, is Hotel Akcent, an immaculate
but basic hotel which offers single, double and family rooms, with a
hearty breakfast in the morning, is very suitable to those travelling
on a budget. Staff were extremely helpful and the hotel was in a
superb position, with access to public transport and a short walk to
the Charles Bridge.
Prague is fast catching up with other European capitals. It is a
destination steeped in history and architecture and certainly worth a
long weekend or short break visit before it is bombarded with tourists.
http://www.czechtourism.com