Our regular roving contributor Simon Warburton has been north west from the UK to an island that even in times of yore was occasionally a rest point between Europe and what we call America. Here is what he has to say.
Perched on the top of Europe, the island of Iceland lies a chilly 64 degrees north. But there”s far more to the country than its well-known footballers or trying to keep warm, as Simon Warburton reports.
Not necessarily the first destination that springs to mind for a short break or holiday, nonetheless Iceland possesses a whole raft of pre-requisites for a long weekend or even a week. It”s true there probably won”t be a lot of sunbathing or swimming ” although the long summer nights and abundance of hot outdoor, natural spas more than make up ” but there are myriad other activities with which to while away the endless winter evenings or midnight light.
And at under three hours away from the UK, Iceland is not exactly inaccessible either. This is a break with a difference ” Iceland is essentially a volcanic island and sets the tourist or business visitor a plethora of climatic challenges that offer a real change from the norm.
But don”t go near to the Arctic Circle expecting the ”Paris of the north” (who hasn”t got a ”Paris” of some compass point?) or some such marketing moniker. This is a country that has emerged spewing lava and volcanic rock from the ocean over a great age and whose topography and architecture reflect that nascent struggle with the elements. Roads are good but virtually empty and pass through some of the strangest lunar-like landscape on earth. It is fairly unusual ” outside the major towns ” to encounter anything like traffic and a sturdy four by four would be highly recommended ” just in case the terrain becomes a little more difficult or if snow is forecast.
Iceland still retains something of a cold war feel to it. During the east-west stand-off, the country was a staging post between the US and Europe and indeed, NATO still has a presence there. Many novelists have used the place as a setting for their thrillers and who can forget the 1986 ”fireside chat” between Presidents Regan and Gorbachev in the capital Reykjavik, to discuss the controversial American ”Star Wars” initiative.
That rather old-fashioned feel extends to the country”s politics as well. The country is staunchly nanny-state and with sky-high taxation on anything remotely resembling a luxury product, cheap this country is not. A glass of beer will set you back around ”6, while a decent bottle of Rioja in one of Reykjavik”s restaurants ” well the figure can easily be ”50.
Iceland”s primary city ” Reykjavik ” Europe”s northernmost and whose name means ”Smoky City” ” is more of a large town and certainly would not invite any Parisian comparisons (seen at top). Due to various volcanic eruptions, it looks modern, feels modern and is modern. The harbour is pleasant enough as is the main SAS hotel, (despite its extraordinarily high business centre fees) but there are few buildings that stand out as architectural masterpieces apart from the stunning city cathedral that is a monument to modern techniques but which echoes a Viking past as well.
The town of some 170,000 people features many bars and restaurants but the extraordinarily steep duty means that much entertainment is primarily done at home, followed by a foray out later on. And Icelanders ” in common with so many of their Scandinavian cousins ” genuinely like to party. Vodka is understandably popular and indeed the UK is now featuring an Icelandic brand ” Polstar ” whose marketing heavily stresses the pure, Nordic features of the product.
Many hotels feature spa treatments, swimming pools and of course, the ubiquitous sauna, but for those hardy enough to venture outside, the real saunas are the natural ones. Iceland features many spectacular and natural geothermal currents that are often utilised as tourist attractions. The most famous of these is the Blue Lagoon ” conveniently located on the way to the airport at westerly Keflavik ” and which takes its name from the thick clay to be found lining its perimeter and floor. A year round attraction ” the Blue Lagoon is perhaps best appreciated in the depths of winter when the outside temperature plummets. Visitors change just as they would for a swimming pool and then ” braving the 20 metre dash in arctic temperatures ” enter a steaming and completely natural hot spa. The clay serves as a sort of mudpack for those wishing to pat it all over ” and is highly sought after by skincare specialists.
And it”s not just spas ” indoor and the more bracing type either. Horse riding is very popular on tough ponies ” full-weather protective clothing is given ” as is snowmobiling and careering around, ”Top Gear” style on deserted beaches in enormous, ”Monster Jeeps”. The visitor will frequently come across massive eruptions of steam ” all natural of course ” that permeate the countryside and which make Reykjavik”s heating system one of the most environmentally friendly on the planet.
Close to the Blue Lagoon, Keflavik International Airport is modern, pleasant and, as well as playing host to a range of military aircraft, also welcomes a wide range of airlines, from its home carrier, Icelandair, through to Air Atlanta, Myflug Air and Iceland Express as well as seasonal services from LTU, MyTravel, Astraeus and Condor. Islandflug also operates charter services.
Check-in is a breeze and once through departures, the terminal is bright and airy, although there is not a huge amount to do to pass the time. Several shops sell local produce and clothing ” not the cheapest ” and there is a limited view of the aprons and runways. Icelandair is naturally the largest airline and operates an all Boeing 757-200/300 (12) fleet to worldwide destinations including Minneapolis-St.Paul, Boston, New York and Orlando, as well as many European cities such as London, Glasgow, Barcelona, Madrid, Helsinki, Oslo and Paris. Service is brisk rather than overbearing and for those at the back, non-soft drinks have to be paid for. Icelandair enjoys a reputation for good deals to the US from Europe via its Keflavik hub and is more than worth a stopover anyway in its capital city. And the carrier is becoming acquisitive too ” it now has almost 10% of easyJet whilst Avion, the renamed Air Atlanta Aviation Group (see ABTN 25 October) has acquired the British charter airline Excel Airways.
The people of Iceland almost all speak English and are overwhelmingly friendly ” from the airport to the hotel and out in the country. With a small population and relatively large landmass, Iceland is a perfectly feasible ” and unusual ” weekend break. With some famous Icelandic footballers knocking them in for Chelsea and others, it's perhaps time to see what their country is all about.
http://www.icelandair.co.uk
http://www.icetourist.is