Last August Prague was overtaken by some of the most devastating floods seen in Europe in the last 500 years. Whole areas of the city bordering the river Vltava were covered by water, sometimes up to 20 feet deep, including the historic Jewish quarter. It is a tribute to the Czechs that now, less than a few months from the catastrophe, the floods are history, the terrible mess for the most part cleared up, and the city bustling once again. Tourists, a major part of the economy, are returning in even bigger numbers, none more so than from the UK, where there are now competitive flights from virtually every major airport.
Prague is one of the great cities of Europe, inexpensive, friendly and safe. It is much pedestrianised and you can probably cover in it in a two night stay, but a slightly longer break is to be recommended. Visas for UK citizens are not required and the clocks are one hour ahead of us (except the Hebrew clock seen in the photograph on the web site, which moves the wrong way round ” anticlockwise). The Czech Krown is the local currency. It is a ”must see” city which probably will change (and get more expensive) when it joins the EC in two years time.
The history of Prague goes back over 1,000 years and is very much tied into the story of Bohemia. Until the first world war part of the Hapsburg empire, Czechoslovakia was established as an independent republic after the First World War in 1918, falling under Nazi rule in 1939, then Communist until the ”Velvet Revolution” of 1989. Led by the playwright and writer Vaclav Havel, the Czech Republic spilt on a friendly basis with neighbouring Slovakia in 1993 creating two staunchly democratic mid-European states. Havel, once a prisoner of the State, retires in the spring .
One key to the success of any emerging country is a successful airline. If business and leisure visitors can travel to and from a nation”s capital with the minimum of fuss they will come back, and tell their friends about the place. CSA, the state carrier, founded in 1924, operates a pair of Airbus A310-300 for long haul flights, mainly a daily service to and from New York, 20 Boeing 737”s within Europe and 10 ATR turboprops on regional routes. It”s two class flights are well up to the best European standards. From the UK the airline flies out of Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and Manchester plus Dublin and is soon to be joined by Edinburgh. Fares are competitive with the budget carriers, who are also finding Prague a lucrative market. The services are backed up by CSA Airtours, an integrated part of the operation and well represented at Prague Airport. They can book hotels at very good rates and expertly look at restaurant and theatre requirements.
The bright and modern Prague Ruzyne Airport, where the welcome is quick and efficient, is located 7 miles westward from the city centre. There are cheap regular public buses and shuttle transport operated by minibuses from CSA. For less than 10 pounds you can take a taxi to your hotel. The City Travel Centre is near to Namesti Republiky (Republic Square) where the underground stop of the same name is located. Prague itself is a walking city but there is a good, if crowded, public transport network.
What to do and where to go in Prague? Firstly book a half day coach tour. Whilst the city is mainly flat, the massive castle complex sits on a hill the other side of the river to most of the places you will want to see. A typical tour takes in Prague Castle, the old town, and most of the outstanding buildings. With the exception of the first two, all you will get is an outside view and interesting commentary but it will give you a taste of what you might like to see in more detail. The ancient stone Charles Bridge has to be walked over. Prague has museums and theatres galore and little traffic by capital city standards. It is a city of culture catering for many tastes. Mozart was a resident, but today jazz is the most popular outlet for aspiring musicians. The State Opera House is one of the most beautiful in Europe and even if the programme is not quite to your taste well worth an evening. Both the National Theatre and the Estates Theatre (where Mozart”s Don Giovanni was premiered) have programmes to suit all tastes and as night falls the city becomes alive with all sorts of venues competing for patronage with their musical outlets.
Prague Castle is massive. Start at the top of the hill, where the buses or taxis let you off, and make your way down. Its history goes back to the beginnings of the city and it is still the residence of the Czech president. The castle takes in St Vitus Cathedral, a breathtaking example of ecclesiastical architecture. Pass by the Golden Lane, ancient homes, now small shops selling the trinkets one has come to expect in such tourist destinations. There are bargains to be had. Czechia is famous for its glass. Emerging from the castle descend into Hradcany Square, perhaps take in some of its palaces and then back to the Charles Bridge and a walk to the Town Hall and Charles Square, a busy open market. Another short stroll will take you to Wenceslas Square, which is not a square at all, but a magnificent boulevard dominated by the splendid baroque style National museum.
For Jewish people Prague has a particular poignancy, the Old-New Synagogue, dating from the middle of the 13th century, the oldest religious house still standing and the oldest synagogue in Europe. Surprisingly the old Jewish quarter was not destroyed by the Nazis but by so-called progressive developers 100 years ago who pulled down the, admittedly, mainly slum ghetto to make way for French style boulevards and modern housing. Fortunately conservationists of the time saved the six most worthy of the synagogues for future generations. The Second World War saw the decimation of the Czech Jewish community and the destruction of 300 synagogue. The brave elders of Prague managed to persuade the Nazis to save the Jewish quarter in order for later generations to see what they perceived as a lost civilisation. The elders, however, did not save themselves.
When it comes to hotels Prague is as well endowed as any sophisticated capital city. ABTN stayed at the Hilton, the hotel not quite in the centre but an easy 15 minute stroll to Town Hall Square, home of the main tourist information centre. Completed in June 1991, and featuring a massive and impressive atrium, the Hilton has 788 rooms including an executive floor, much more congenial than most. It has the feel of a small exclusive club. The United States took over the complete hotel for the recent NATO conference and it has hosted President Clinton several times.
Prague is the gateway to Bohemia. Another time hopefully.
http://www.csa.cz http://www.czechtourservice.cz