O N T O U R: Morocco
Casablanca, on Morocco”s Atlantic coastline, may evoke black and white smoky memories of the classic 1942 wartime film of that name staring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman ("Here's lookin' at you, kid", and the inaccurately-quoted "Play it again, Sam"), but today it is a thriving cosmopolitan city combining European standards of roads, buildings and cleanliness (and safety) with North African and Arab ideals. The latest version of Sam's bar was of course sampled by the editor. Morocco was a French protectorate and the influence remains (including the language, much used in business). Casablanca, with its 3.5m population, is the commercial centre of the Kingdom of Morocco, ruled with benevolence by Mohammed VI, whose picture appears to be seen on virtually every lamppost, and who came to the throne on the death of his father King Hassan II in 1999. The old King was noted as a bad timekeeper and once kept our Queen waiting on Britannia somewhat longer than what can be termed as reasonable. She was said to be ”not amused”.
Getting to Casablanca could not be easier with GB Airways (masquerading as BA) and Royal Air Maroc both offering daily flights from Heathrow. The American (and British) cruise ships have the massive man made harbour on their roster. For a week”s holiday it is probably best to allow for a couple of days in Casablanca, a day in the capital Rabat, 45 miles to the north east, with the balance of the vacation spent in Agadir, far to the south and destroyed by an earthquake in 1960 (with a loss of 25,00 lives) and now essentially a winter holiday resort much favoured by the Scandinavians and Germans. GB has direct flights this winter from Agadir to Gatwick or you can connect over a variety of points.
Sitting on the coast, and perhaps the showpiece of Casablanca, is the Hassan II mosque, the quintessence of Moroccan art which features the world”s highest minaret, over 600 feet tall. There is room for 25,000 worshippers inside the structure, which offers a retractable roof, and accommodation for at least 80,000 in the plaza that surrounds the building. The mosque is built of marble and granite at a cost estimated at around USD800m. In keeping with the whole atmosphere of Morocco non-believers are welcome outside prayer hours but it is always best to check opening times before paying a visit. Coming from the centre of the city you have the choice of normal Mercedes type taxis or Taxi Petit, generally small Peugeots and Renaults, adventurously driven, but not for the faint hearted.
The old medina is a fantastic throwback from history, a teaming part of the former walled city with a labyrinth of narrow alleyways full of shops and street vendors. Fish and seafood straight out of the ocean, pyramids of fresh fruit and vegetables, live chickens (make your choice!) beef and lamb but no pork. Barber shops galore. Electrical goods that could come out of a UK boot sale and colourful garments, hand sewn, and available in any size. Leather goods of every description. Wonderful handicrafts. For those skilled in the art of haggling a real paradise. For the less accomplished a chance to watch and see how it should be done. And all the time you feel safe. The Moroccans are a proud people and want to make you welcome. They have aspirations to join the European community (although a special case will have to be made for the market ” it”s clean but the live chickens would not pass muster). Morocco proves that with a common cause for decency and understanding the east and the west can live together in peace and harmony.
The Habbous district is still very much Moroccan in flavour but totally different with the large houses of successful merchants and prosperous landowners of an earlier era built around quadrangles. Still more bazaars and skilled craftsmen manufacturing their wares just as they have done for generations. Also the Mahkama du Pacha, the sumptuous edifice which houses both the courts of justice and reception rooms for state occasions. And another Palace for the King.
Casablanca is well supplied with hotels, with the Hyatt in United Nations Square fully up to the latest standards (and not too expensive). During the winter the temperature never drops below 60F, but in the summer 80F is the norm. It never gets too hot. http://www.tourism-in-morocco.com