Simon Warburton reports;
Colonised by the Romans 2,000 years ago and hence its name, Cologne might not automatically leap out as the first choice for a break in Germany and yet its myriad attractions deserve a closer look.
One of Germany”s larger cities and hugging the Rhine in the Ruhrgebiet region that also encompasses D”sseldorf and Dortmund, Cologne was virtually flattened by the allies in World War II with some 93% of the city destroyed in waves of devastating bombing raids. Remarkably ” and how often does this happen ” the ancient cathedral and possibly the city”s best-known landmark ” survived virtually unscathed.
The cathedral defines the city ” other Germans say that ”Cologne would be nothing without its cathedral” ” it lies at the heart of the city centre and all life appears to radiate out from it in a series of concentric rings. Built in 1248 to house the relics of the Magi ” the Three Kings who travelled to see the baby Jesus in Bethlehem ” Cologne Cathedral took a staggering 600 years to complete ” although there was rather a gap of 300 years or so in the late Middle Ages. A true colossus of a building, even by medieval cathedral standards, it soars 470 feet into the air and the intrepid ” and fit ” tourist can scale its 500 plus steps in a lung-busting climb that will yield dazzling views of the city. And at night, its illumination makes it even more special.
Cologne as a place of pilgrimage also gave the city many other churches that dot the city centre, but it is the cathedral that houses the Magi relics ” encased in gold and protected by a bulletproof glass. Tours in English are available.
The " R”misch-Germanisches Museum" (Roman-Germanic Museum - left) lies next to the Cathedral and offers a vast collection of exhibits from Roman culture on the Rhine. It displays the history of the city from the Paleolithicum until the era of Charlemagne. Special attention is given to the Roman period. The museum is constructed around and above the famous Dionysos mosaic, from the 2nd century AD, with a surface of 70m”.
The city”s other claim to fame is its role as Germany”s, and perhaps Europe”s, premier trade fair centre. A staggering 25 of the world”s largest such shows, including Anuga, (food and drink) Photokina (photography) and rather quaintly, the IFMA ” the International Bicycle Market trade fair.
These shows are seriously big, with vast halls often requiring dedicated buses to serve one from the other. Anyone attending had better get used to walking a lot of kilometres, but they are extremely professionally organised ” as you would expect from Germany ” and are very useful from a business point of view.
It”s not all number crunching however. At close of the working day, the hardy fairgoer can sample one of Cologne”s 3,000 bars and restaurants ” the largest number per capita in Germany. Ubiquitous Irish bars abound ” where don”t they? ” but Cologne has many German bars serving the local speciality ” ”Kolsch” ” a light, top-fermenting beer that is only, and strictly, allowed to be brewed in the city.
Around the cathedral are the most expensive bars serving Kolsch beers ” and the waiters or Kobes don”t exactly have time to chat ” but they often wear the traditional blue overalls. Kolsch beers are small ” 0.2cl ” although not correspondingly small prices ” but if in a large party they can be served in a special long carrier, capable of taking eight or ten at a time.
Cologne-Bonn Airport has to rank as one of the most impressive facets of the city. As the former gateway to the German capital ” now transferred obviously to Berlin ” the airport is a monumental glass and steel structure that also doubles as one of Germany's main cargo hubs. It is airy, efficient and enormous ” handling flights to all corners of the world ” as well as a significant base for low-cost carrier Germanwings, which has just announced a major schedule expansion.
British Airways, Lufthansa, Germanwings, Hapag Lloyd (from Coventry) and now easyJet, all serve Cologne from the UK, with the latter in particular offering brand new Airbus A319s at prices that are extremely reasonable. As far as hotels go the choice is similarly varied. Crown Plaza, Hilton and Renaissance are amongst the many in the in the city centre with five star quality and prices and fine modern well equipped properties such as Express by Holiday Inn in the suburbs. Keep away from the major exhibition times and you will be OK. There are plenty of small hostelries hotels in the city centre and there is a good public transport system of buses and trams for getting around if taxis are not for you. If you are looking for details on the web don”t be confused. The English spelling of Cologne, but the correct, German, name place is Koln. In any event the language of the Anglo”s is widely spoken.
http://www.koeln.de/en/