O N T O U R: Bergerac
One of ABTN”s roving reporters, Simon Warburton, has used one of the UK's burgeoning regional European air routes to visit a part of France made popular from the UK partly due to massive TV exposure.
Set in the shadow of its giant neighbour to the west, the Dordogne, western France has long been popular with holidaying and second-home Brits, given its historical affinity with the UK, but with a good dose of sunshine and certainly better wine thrown in.
For those eschewing the long drive down from the Channel ports, the traditional air route has been into Bordeaux”s Merignac Airport, but the Dordogne visitor now has a choice to the far handier base of Bergerac. Ryanair has been operating to Bergerac for some time, but Flybe”s seemingly exponential expansion ex-Southampton, has now seen it also set up shop in the Dordogne ” and at some pretty competitive rates too.
Flybe was looking at some fairly tough times last year, but under the tutelage of managing director, Jim French, the airline has re-invented itself as a low-cost, scheduled alternative to more traditional carriers ” and their higher fares. Operating British Aerospace BAe 146 aircraft to the tiny airport of Bergerac, travellers can shave an hour-and-a-half from the Bordeaux transfer time and be in the heart of Bergerac in 15 minutes.
It has to be said that Bergerac”s stacking procedure can hardly be over-used ” it must rank as one of France”s smaller airports ” and apart from the two UK carriers there appears to be just one other airline ” Airlinair ” operating thrice-daily to Paris. Passengers walk to a miniscule arrivals ”hall,” where baggage is disgorged in double-quick time on manual rollers and then exit the huge distance of ten yards to outside taxis and buses. The reverse process takes place in a slightly larger departures area, although passengers can benefit from a great sun-terrace overlooking the runway ” how many airports is that possible at nowadays? ” where food and drink can be consumed at leisure.
Bergerac”s links to the UK reach back to 1255 when the town surrendered to the English Henry III, who immediately made it an independent Kingdom with the right to trade wine up the Gironde Estuary. The inhabitants of Bordeaux and Libourne were less enthusiastic about this development however, and promptly slapped hefty tolls on river traffic ” making Bergerac wines less competitive than their own.
The Brits and the good people from Bordeaux eventually learned to accept each other, but interestingly the area retains significant links with the UK ” particularly through the wine trade and famous local brands such as Monbazillac, Saussignac, Pecharmant, Montravel and Rosette, among others, are highly recommended.
Any visitor using Flybe”s services to Bergerac will be immediately struck by the quality and quantity of wine, as well as its importance to the region. This is immediately evident in the plethora of vineyards that dot the Bergerac region ” divided from east to west by the Dordogne and irrigated by several of its tributaries.
The other overwhelming gastronomic feature of the region is the ubiquitous foie gras ” this is not the place to come for a strict diet. If you”re not eating it at one of the area”s many sumptuous restaurants such as the 12th century L”Enfance de Lard in Bergerac ” then you”re seeing promotions for it plastered on numerous billboards along with advertisements for swimming pools and rather oddly ” Bordeaux Airport”s London route.
Accommodation is plentiful but for those wishing to escape the standard hotel-type lodging, Le Domaine de Foncaudiere (see photo) just outside Bergerac may be just the ticket. Set in 100 acres of rolling hills, this restored Chateau features several individual cottages of an extremely high standard, dotted around the main building where guests can browse the library or relax in front of an enormous fire. One of the delights of the place is also the ability to take breakfast on the Chateau terrace or for those city dwellers, to sit on the same terrace at night and see a fantastically starry sky, unobscured by street lighting.
Flybe”s extraordinary expansion continues, with news that the carrier also plans to link Bristol and Bergerac with a daily service, while some 60,000 passengers are expected to fly the route from Southampton this year.
http://www.pays-de-bergerac.com/english/index.asphttp://www.foncaudiere.com