Visitors arriving at Strasbourg Airport are left in little doubt of the city's political status when they see a third immigration channel especially for 'European Parliamentarians'. As home to both the European Court of Human Rights and the European Parliament's alternative assembly building, the city is a major administrative pillar of continental government and one of the few non-national capitals in the world to host major international organisations of this kind.
But if this conjures up images of a vast impersonal business centre, forget it. Far from being the collection of modern high-rise buildings that you might expect of a city that is both at the centre of European politics and set on the German border right in the midst of the destruction of both world wars, it is in fact a place of great charm that exudes its proud heritage at almost every turn.
Indeed, it is a joy of picturesque architecture spanning the city's history from its St Etienne Cathedral built between 1176 and 1439, through the town hall and private mansions of the 16th and 17th centuries, to examples of buildings erected throughout the next 200 years. The most recent addition to the latter is the huge futuristic glass walled European Parliament building that was completed in 1999 and which is sited on the city”s boundary.
Capital of the Alsace region, the city stands on France's easternmost border just a few kilometres from the River Rhine. Over the years it has been a constant source of territorial dispute and has shuttled between German and French rule five times since 1681. The cathedral is the site of what is arguably Strasbourg's main 'must see' attraction - a 100 foot astronomical clock and calendar built in 1547. Every day this goes through an elaborate 12-noon chime with a 'parade of the apostles' that features moving figures and animals akin to a sort of ancient Disney presentation. However, the event actually happens at 1230 as in the 1950s the priesthood considered the display too much of a distraction for the congregation during midday Mass!
Strasbourg's downtown area features large pedestrianised precincts centred around many of the main historic buildings. Elsewhere the roads have been largely freed from heavy traffic by the use of an efficient and cheap park and ride system that integrates with a modern tram network that criss-crosses the city and connects with buses to the airport.
The best way to see Strasbourg's many sights quickly is to take a ”6.40, 75-minute boat trip that cruises the waterways flowing around the centre. Otherwise, walking is by far the most convenient way to enjoy the city at leisure and five special pedestrian routes themed to specific times in history - such as the Petite France cluster of narrow streets and ancient buildings in the old tanner's sector - cover some 210 historic buildings.
Accommodation is plentiful and of a good standard and in keeping with the city's character there are few of the impersonal multi-storey slab sided hotels so common elsewhere. Nevertheless, they are no less well appointed and the mini suite-like accommodation (including spa baths) of the remarkably quiet three star ”60 to ”162 per night Hotel Beaucour Baumann right in the city centre, typifies the standard that can be found. http://www.hotel-beaucour.com
Restaurant choice is also much more cosmopolitan than usual in French cities and Strasbourg even boasts four Indian eateries! For local fare though, lunch in an intimate 'winstub' or family owned restaurant such as Au Cruchon in rue des Pucelles (tel: +33 (0) 3 88 35 78 82) is a delight, while Zimmer Sengel in rue de temple Neuf (tel: +33 (0)3 88 32 35 01) provides superb food in a quality dinner setting albeit with a limited menu choice.
There is much to be enjoyed outside the city as well. Alsace boasts the largest density of castles in the world with 150 situated within a stretch of country just 150 km long. The best preserved is 2,500ft up the Vosges Mountains at Koenigsbourg just 45 minutes drive from Strasbourg and offers spectacular views over the surrounding terrain as well as superbly presented glimpses of the castle's rich past from its beginnings in 1147.
As a monument to wasteful extravagance the huge European Parliament building takes some beating. With the exception of the 35 days a year when Europe's 750 MEPs meet there, its huge glass edifice clearly shows the building to be completely deserted. As a by-product of this gross political grandstanding, Ryanair's new twice daily service to the city from Stansted (once on Saturday) could well become labelled as a European 'gravy plane”.
For while MEPs can claim the ”475 Air France fare from London to Strasbourg (although you and I can travel on the route much cheaper), the cost of travel on one of the Irish airline's brand new 189-seat Boeing 737-800s can be insignificant. http://www.strasbourg.com
Bob Miliichap is a journalist, turned airline pilot with Virgin Atlantic, and back to being a journalist. He will be contributing to ABTN from time to time.