ON TOUR: Nuremberg. Put it in your diary for 2006
For the would-be traveller the word Nuremberg can conjure up a variety of feelings. If you are of a certain age Nuremberg means the vicious Nazi racial laws introduced in the 1930s and of the massive rallies masterminded by Hitler, the enormous Allied bombing raids and of the post war trials. For the sports minded Englishman (and those whose affiliations lie with Sweden, Paraguay and Trinidad & Tobago) Nuremberg will mean the 2006 World Cup.
Nuremburg is more than the Second World War and football. It is one of Europe”s most interesting cities, nearly 1,000 years old, small and contained and very much worth a visit. 90% was destroyed in the war and the rebuilding has been impressively sympathetic. Geographically speaking it is in the heart of Bavaria, 100 miles north of Munich and 500 miles, or seven hours driving, from Calais. The airport is just four miles from the city centre and is connected by an excellent (and very cheap ” E2.20 single) U-Bahn metro system. Air Berlin flies twice daily from Stansted (Monday to Friday with a restricted service at the weekends) and now also connects through its new UK hub to Glasgow and Manchester. Once you have arrived forget about the car or even taxis. Nuremberg is for walking, the majority of its most interesting sites contained within the 5km wall that encircles the ”Old Town”. And don”t worry about it being too crowded with tourists (except perhaps for the soccer tournament). Nuremberg is at its busiest not during the summer but for the noisy pre-Christmas market festival which attracts the masses from neighbouring Austria, Poland and Switzerland. Accommodation is no problem the tourist board listing nearly 150 facilities in the metropolitan area ranging from the excellent and very well located Arabella Sheraton just outside the city walls and virtually next door to the railway station, through to German Gasthof”s and student hostels where good clean but basic lodging is available for less than E25 per night. Everyone speaks English at the Sheraton and even off the beaten track the locals are more comfortable with the language of the British Isles than say French.
Today the Nuremberg area is a major centre for trade fairs and is particularly well known for its food, toys and pencils. Nuremberg is a city brimming with history. The Old Town is dominated by the mighty castle that in times gone by was the preferred residence of German emperors including Frederick Barbarossa and Charles IV. It is one of the few truly walled cities remaining in Europe, the massive stone edifice, with its watchtowers and gateways nearly three miles in length.
The Old Town is a bright modern and clean place but surprisingly not traffic free. Whilst much of the area is pedestrianised cars and buses are allowed in. It is also a mixture of the ancient, typically the Schoner Brunnen, or beautiful fountain, a wonderful 60 feet high piece of sculptured masonry that dates from the 14th century, to the Neues Museum, the state museum for art and design, all glass and steel and dating from 2000. There are museums galore to suit every taste all situated within the city walls, with the notable exception of the transport collection, Germany”s finest, and just the other side of the moat.
The Toy Museum, the German National Museum and the City Museum are three of the best. At the historical town hall you can go either upstairs to the Great Hall or down into the dungeons (or visit both). There are tours of the underground passageways that crisscross parts of the old town but perhaps the best way to gain an overview of the city is to pick up a leaflet called ”Historische Meile” from one of the tourist centres, the main railway station or a hotel. This self-guided signposted tour brings you to the old city's most important sights at your own pace. You can take in the atmosphere, loiter where you like and participate in some drinking and eating, inside or outside depending on the weather.
The dreadful years of National Socialism have not been forgotten or covered up. The courtroom from the 1945 trials is open to the public as is the Documentation Centre and part of the area where the Nazi party held its gigantic rallies now depicted on old grainy black and white films.
Nuremburg stands out as Germany”s oldest and most interesting historical city regarded as the ”Treasure Chest of the German Empire”. Allow two hours from takeoff at Stansted to be well installed in your city centre hotel.
http://www.tourismus.nuernberg.de