The request was to go to Kazakhstan. Your editor”s first response was ”where the heck is Kazakhstan?” It must be one of those spin-off former Russian Republics full of gun toting mafia types and Moslem extremists? Not the place for a north London boy to visit, admittedly one who has experienced many a strange press engagement.
Kazakhstan shows you how wrong you can be. From the first appointment at the London Embassy to sort out a visa, where the pleasant staff quickly show you how to fill out simple forms and deal with matters, to arrival at Almaty International Airport, an extremely modern edifice, where the immigration officials are polite and everything very civilised. The Republic of Kazakhstan is the ninth largest country in the world in terms of size. One can compare it with Australia but its population, of just 15m is less. It stretches from the Caspian Sea to China. It was from the Bayonet Cosmo drone, in the centre of the country, that Yuri Gagarin made the first manned space flight. The Republic was created in December 1991 with the former communist leader as head of government. The presidential elections took place yesterday (Sunday 4 December).
Getting to Almaty was easy. Just seven hours (or as far as New York) from Heathrow in a comfortable Boeing 757 of Air Astana. ”Flying at the Front End,” which follows, tells you more.
ABTN”s residence for the short stay was the excellent five-star Hyatt Regency, at least the equal of its sister hotels anywhere in the world, with a Club floor and a really superb swimming pool, spa and keep fit complex. The eating was pretty good too and difficult to appreciate that you are in the middle of central Asia. Apples come from Almaty (that is where the name originates) and in the local vegetable and meat market you can buy just about anything, including bananas and dates.
Almaty is a modernised Russian style city sitting in a valley 3,000 feet above sea level with mountains all around. The local ski slopes are less than 30 minute”s drive from the busy city centre with the season running more or less parallel with that of Europe. On the way to the slopes is the world famous Medeu high altitude skating rink (left), also the venue for pop concerts in the summer months. The road up to Medeu snakes its way up through a wooded mountain gorge bordered by huge modern properties that would not be out of place in Beverley Hills.
Your editor”s invitation included a trip to Astana (in the cockpit of a 737 with special security clearance), the new capital, and probably the world”s first 21st century city. It is an astonishing building site at the present time, with the Esil river running through the centre, dividing the municipality into the left and right hand banks. One side is more or less devoted to the seat of government, with the President”s palace sitting by the river, Parliament Courts of Justice and various governmental departments, plus of course all the various embassies. On the other bank is the commercial part of the city.
Population is now said to be 500,000 and will double over the next ten years. More and more astonishing buildings are being constructed with the whole place laid out on a grid system and in some ways, not dissimilar to American towns on the central plains, all very flat and built for the motor car rather than pedestrians. The (empty) airport is built on the edge of the city approximately ten miles away, with a long state road and very little traffic. It is not quite London City but even with 45 minutes until departure time, nobody seemed to be rushing too much. However, Air Astana boards early and always seems to get away spot on time.
Originally Akmola, not much more than an outback Cossack fort, developed as a proper town during the 19th century and became the largest commercial and economic centre of the central part of today”s Kazakhstan. It was selected as a capital after a long period of soul searching, with a decision made by President Nazarbayev, to re-locate the seat of government from Almaty. One thing about Astana is that it is not particularly well off for hotels at this present time, with the Intercontinental outstanding offering a five-star status, and a number of comfortable three-star, air-conditioned properties also available.
http://www.kazakhstanembassy.org.uk
AIR ASTANA - Flying at the Front End
Air Astana was only created 3 years ago after the collapse of several national attempts to produce a stable home brewed airline. It is a partnership between the state (51%) and BAE Systems (49%), with the British company responsible for the day-to-day running of the operation. The founding president Lloyd Paxton, ex-British Airways, sent the airline on its way, and his recent replacement, Peter Foster, spent a long time with Cathay Pacific. The whole operation is run by expatriates with a sprinkling of locals ”learning the trade.” Ex-pats making it work. Enough said.
At Heathrow BAA has done a good job in sign posting that Air Astana is in Terminal 2, but that is where it ends. If you have to collect a ticket (Air Astana is not currently electronic, the paperwork on this occasion written out by hand), some detective work is necessary. In fact 4L (the IATA code) is looked after by an Air France subsidiary tucked away at the back of the main AF desk. AF also supplies the executive lounge but it is a long walk from the gate, which for practical purposes really is in T1. With a half full Boeing 757, boarding was easy except that the airline prefers to get the economy passengers away first as it is required to use the aircraft”s front door for access.
The whole operation reminds one of British Airways in the 1980s. A good friendly service and the narrow bodied Boeing, a fine aircraft with an excellent safety record. Two-plus-two with reclining seats similar to Continental”s BusinessFirst. Here the comparison ends with the 50” seat pitch OK but difficult for the window passenger when a visit to the bathroom is required, or the person in front wishes to select the recline position. No individual TV but a good multi-channel radio selection.
Once on board the cabin staff are quick to take care of coats and on offer is Russian champagne (it is different), orange or still water. A neat amenities bag is on offer as is a good selection of English (and Kazakh) newspapers. Once airborne a full drinks cart service is provided but no dinner menu. For whatever reasons the airline does not have a printed menu (on any of its services ” see domestic below), the meals themselves are nicely presented on Astana branded china and with ample portions. A seafood starter was provided with a choice of steak or an undefined fish course, plus salad bowl, cheese course and dessert.
You can order a special meal on the web. There is a choice of Kazahk Bakus wine, white or red (not to the editor”s taste and a little bitter), or splendid red "Chenete" Merlot Cabernet 2003 and Blanc de Blancs 2004, by the same producer. Coffee and a liqueur complete the meal. A fine continental breakfast is provided just before landing. Almaty has a very modern simple terminal and a neat tidy airport (a bit like Almaty itself). An easy formality as was the officialdom at the airport. Suitcases arrived very quickly.
In less than 24 hours of arriving in Almaty an invitation was offered to visit Astana, the nation”s purpose-built new capital, 90 minutes flying time to the north. The aircraft on this occasion was a ”new generation” Boeing 737 but unlike most European carriers the business class section was dedicated with proper two-plus-two seating and a service which more or less replicated that on long haul. Pre-flight drinks were served and proper Air Astana branded metal cutlery used. A full bar service was offered and a three-choice hot meal. Don”t expect an executive lounge. At Almaty it was pretty basic with a pay bar. In Astana it did not exist. No problems with cell phones. Kazakhstan uses the European GSM system and the moment the wheels touched the ground everyone seemed to be using their mobile. No it was not a relief mechanism, both landings (that is including the return flight) excellent.
http://www.air-astana.kz